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HOT STUFF
Posted by Brian Richardson on Feb 06 2006
Good posting Mike –
Here’s a general rundown on stoves for here in Alaska:
For reliability, stability, safety, boil rate, flame time, not having to be bothered about what’s underneath the stove, and for starting campfires w/ ease in addition to a controlled method (not just tossing gas or diesel on a woodpile)… The best by quite a margin and for fuel availability are multi fuel-stoves like the Coleman Dual Fuel 533.
However - original posting sounds more specific to mountain hunting and lightweight… therefore a compromise.
NO STOVE - I think when it’s mostly balmy out even if somewhat nasty – no stove/no pans at all is the lightest option and short-term tolerable in the mountains! Carry several handy Trioxane packets or something if a little warmth is needed (you can burn them outside to start a fire or manageably by themselves in a suitable tent during storms).
IF a COMPONENT STOVE - The single maximum explosive evidence I have ever been a part of was with an MSR XGK. At first I was very pleased even proud of my purchase. On performance tho’ - it really lacked on simple things like simmering, had inconsistent rapid boil rates depending on circumstances, always needing a safe and sound flame surface, fiddling w/ stability, and so on. After guiding in Katmai’s Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes for a week w/ assaults on the surrounding volcanoes I lent the stove to another guide friend that used it for another trip into the pumice storm Valley. Upon the stoves return, I had another trip going out so I did a routine burn test and it Blew sky high like a roadside bomb. Luckily for me - I ducked and the spinning fireball flew over my head, landed kept spinning and spraying fire until it was small enough to smother. Needless to say it was instant, violent, and the stove was turned to twisted, torqued metal scrap. Later evidence showed that wet, powdery pumice muds had gotten into the system. Though porous on first light the primary heat baked the mud into stone, plugging the generator, building pressure, & KABAMMM!
Are MSR stoves good? Yes – but they have some considerably existent shortcomings and component stoves have a better likelihood for elements to fail. That’s why all the fuss about maintenance kits and the relative easy of disassembly & reassembly. They are uncomplicated and reasonably reliable, but be watchful with these stoves the most by far.
IF LIGHTWEIGHT CARTRIDGE/CANISTER STOVES - Mostly cartridge/canister propane, butane, or combo of the two jets… Some are quite high-quality others are cast-offs of some sort. Reliability, simplicity, easy of use, mostly inexpensive, and safety are these stoves optimum features. Tho’ having all these conveniences, they are no lighter when carrying the fuels, less expensive in the long run, cannot be recharged in the field or once home (end up as garbage) or any better at real world boil rates than many of the component stoves. THEY ARE SAFER! THEY ARE EASIER! THEY WILL LAST LONGER IN PERFECTLY WORKING ORDER THAN MOST ANY STOVES!
IF FLYWEIGHT STOVES - This is kind of a chapter in stoves that needs to be looked at from a real outdoor perspective under harsher conditions 4 sure! I say chapter because it is a trendy phase the stove makers are going for and the (I’ll call) Venetian blind consumers are purchasing. Some know (see through) what they are getting into while others read all the hype (yet see not) and accept it as the latest greatest. The newest craze for example is the Jet Boil!!! Promising so much w/ statistical jargon – The Jet boil, while a neat, lightweight suggestion is really aimed at the java junkies market… it makes a quick cup of coffee, small scale Giardia slayer, or no more than double freeze dry packet, soup, so on in favorable conditions. If you want to distinguish the specifics in bona-fide hands, by independent testing, in cool fall temps 5-teens F. or in windy circumstances for Alaska… The Jet Boil is the most marginal stove I have almost EVER used in the field despite its neat modern day play on the old Swedish military stove concept! It has a light duty “glow” (little flare) that just about any slight breeze can effortlessly extinguish. I can blow the stove out indoors w/ scarcely more than that of a whispers breathe! If you fill it full to its specified marker for two servings – instant stability problems and the boil time is drastically bogged down. It claims no need for lighters and matches - however the igniter is not to be trusted. What I am saying here is that the JET BOIL is not a good “stove” (with either the winter or summer mix canisters – there is a difference in performance). It is a hot drink maker on the go for one when you’re one-dose Jonesin’ and don’t forget you’re lighter or matches. Flyweight stoves do have their place, but I see them more as trim gadgetry, emergency use, back-ups, tent warmers, big cigar lighters, or for the individual that could have made the trip w/ no stove at all.
PREFERENCES - Really hinges on how many in the party, what food is packed along, for how long, likely temps/weather, and what other equipment is carried in the mix.
SOLO PACKING under 5 days –-- NO stove. MRE meals w/ self heaters - a few packs of Trioxane for fire - enjoyable variety of lightweight salt & sweet tooth munchies - cold drink mixes in one litter Nalgene type bottles.
2 People PACKING 2 ˝ days --- almost the same, but possibly a lightweight integrated tank multi-fuel like the Coleman Multi @ 22 oz, Feather 442 @ 24 oz., or lightweight canister stove and a 1-2 liter pot – replace the MRE w/ 2 person freeze dry and some hot drink mix, soup, etc.
More than 2 people MULTI-DAY --- FLOAT TRIP!!!! Coleman Dual Fuel 2 even 3 burner powerhouse or two 533 1 burners.
Brian Richardson
http://www.northernrim.com
Previous: Backpack Stoves and Cookware Michael Strahan Feb 02 2006
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